Thankful to see the end of gas combines in the 80's. So we set the points at least a couple times a season with matchbooks On the matchbooks, when we ran JD 105's and 95's they were hard on points so occasionally they would just die when running at full power the points spring was always broken. Really helped uptime since we do not go for new paint that often. A pain but we have had machines go for a week without dying following this method until we could get a weather downtime. Then when you get a chance you pull it in and replace the bearing. Take your Powerspark timing light and aim it at the timing marks, pressing the button on the T元00. The faulty bearing is greased hourly until the weather goes bad. The next day we hand out a 14 gauge needle with a grease zerk on it. That has always gotten us through the day. So you take the nail sitting next to it and break the bearings protective seal and oil it hourly. Pain in the neck to replace in the field and expensive to pull the machine off the line. If you find one that is getting hot, it is getting ready to die. We have a rule, all of the sealed bearings on combines, swathers, balers, beet lifters, etc are checked hourly. The most common is keeping the machines going in the field. be sure you dont have timing drift, if you do there are things that can be done, but lets do this one step at a time so we can make sure we get it sorted with the least amount of confusion.Īnd again, please post your msq (tune file).It had multiple purposes. once you get that sorted out, rev the engine to 2000 rpm (still in fixed timing) and check the timing, make sure its still dead on, and check it again at 3000 rpm. with that set you now adjust the figure in the #1 tooth angle box (the one thats at 276) up or down till your timing marks line up. Other than installing thermo-coupler sensors in the combustion chambers the only real way that you know what is happening inside your engine is to read the spark plugs. if your timing pointer only has a mark at top dead center, put 0 in the fixed timing box. by Mike Canter, Last Updated Dec 19, 2014. for example, if your timing pointer has a mark 10 degrees before top dead center, put 10 in the fixed timing box. When your setting up the tooth angle with the timing light you want to set the fixed timing box at whatever your timing pointer is, and the fixed timing box is degrees before top dead center. Your timing (except in some specific situations) should always be before top dead center (btdc). This is the timing light I've been using, I'm pretty sure it dosent have any advancement. Now that I have the base timing I think it'll be easier to make progress. Is this normal?Īlso my o2 sensor is after the catalytic converter is that a problem? Unless my understanding is wrong, its suppose to fire 10deg BTDC right? Also when I put a positive number in the fixed timing advance box it fires ATDC. I turned on the spark advance table and its suppose to be 10deg advance at 600 rpms, but the timing light shows that cyl 1 is firing 10deg ATDC. Okay, so I put 276 in and it's spot on TDC, thank you. just remember, its just a car, its just an electronic box, and with enough time and reading, you will get it sorted out.Īnd post your MSQ, that can really help the people that are trying to help you. There are always people here willing to help, the key it to keep from getting too frustrated. also make sure when your checking timing your using fixed timing mode. advancing timing lights can cause inaccurate timing readings with waste spark systems, its best to just use a basic timing light. this is assuming that in the picture you took the red dots are the location of the crank sensor with the engine at top dead center at the top of the compression strokeĪnother thing, its important to use a non advancing timing light when checking your timing. however, keep in mind this is a cam wheel, so you have to double it because the cam turns at half of crank speed, so that gives a figure of 636 degrees. counting the voids between the teeth from your diagram i get 53, 53圆 degrees gives you 318 degrees. When you deal with the angle here you have to remember you always go in the direction the engine turns. Have a look on page 139, the diagrams on 140 and the bit about cam wheels on 141
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